🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.