Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.